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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.